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Chemical peels act by removing part of the top layer of the skin and help remove superficial skin blemishes revealing a smoother more radiant skin.
Superficial peels are derived from sugar cane or other plants and have a short recovery time: the skin may be slightly red or flaky for a few days but this is not usually enough to interfere with everyday activity. They are usually done as a series of treatments. Medium depth peels remove a thicker layer of skin and may result in greater improvement, but cause significant redness and peeling which takes at least a week or two to resolve.
Superficial chemical peels remove the top layer of skin to reveal a smoother more radiant skin surface and reduce irregular surface pigmentation. They also allow other treatment creams and skin care products to penetrate better. If done regularly, the repeated removal of the top layer of skin can help stimulate collagen production below and may help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Salicylic acid peels (related to aspirin and originating from willow plants) can be particularly useful in acne as they remove the thick layers of oil and old skin that block pores.
Glycolic acid peels (derived from sugar cane) are also very helpful in acne, as well as having a hydrating effect on the skin. The effectiveness of the glycolic acid peel depends on the depth of penetration which in turn depends on its concentration. When starting peels for the first time 20% or 30% concentration is used, and the concentration and time in contact with the skin is gradually increased with each treatment.
In the couple of weeks before a glycolic acid peel it is usually helpful to try a light glycolic acid cleanser and/or moisturizer. This is to prepare your skin for the glycolic acid peel and to check that you are not unusually allergic to glycolic acid. Strong exfoliators, microdermabrasion and topical retinoids should be avoided in the week before the superficial peel. Men should not shave on the day of the peel.
Immediately after the peel, the skin may look slightly red, like after mild sunburn. Over the next few days you may notice slight peeling and flaking but this should not interfere with your everyday activity and will settle over a couple of days.
In order to obtain the most benefit from superficial peels a series of peels is used. The usual time interval between peels is two to four weeks. At each successive treatment, the time the peel is in contact with the skin is gradually increased until five minutes is reached, and then the strength of the peel is increased.
Medium depth peels, performed with trichloracetic acid (TCA), remove a slightly thicker layer of skin and therefore produce a more significant improvement. However following a medium depth peel the skin becomes very red and peels for a minimum of one or two weeks, and it is usually necessary to take time off work in the week after treatment while the skin recovers from this deeper peel.
